Varsha Arun
Kashmir Today
It was a clear, sunny day in Pahalgam on April 5th 2025, that saw us making the difficult horseback trek up to Baisaran Valley. Our nimble guide boys cheerfully sang old Hindi songs as they jogged alongside us. They knew the terrain well, steering their horses with practised ease. As the valley, popularly called ‘Mini-Switzerland of India’, came into view, we were met with scenes of fun all around. There was laughter everywhere, families were enjoying themselves, and children ran carefree.
It’s this very scene that would have been occurring on April 22nd, just moments before tragedy struck and shattered it in an instant.
Note: This blog is NOT a political commentary, but rather an account of an outsider’s observations of the ground reality in Kashmir.
Rolling fields of Baisaran Valley, Pahalgam ©Varsha Arun, 2025
My trip to Kashmir was spontaneous, driven by a curiosity about where the charm of the place comes from. Is it the stunning scenery, the mellow life of the Pahadis, or the unique cultural etiquette that makes the heartbeat of Kashmir? Somewhere, while walking around Srinagar, sipping sweet Kehwa with the soulful strum of a Rabab floating in the air, I understood what it really is.
The beauty of Kashmir lies far beyond its breathtaking landscapes. It’s in the culture of the place; something that permeates the very air of the mountains. Even the winter snowflakes and spring tulips are soaked in this charm, as if they were destined for this heavenly place. They say you must visit at least eight times in a lifetime, but I believe that’s nowhere enough.
Beauty Amid Fragility
Snow-capped mountains of Doodhpatri ©Varsha Arun, 2025
Kashmir is a chameleon of a landscape. It rivals the freshness of Switzerland during spring, then becomes a brilliantly white wonderland in winter. Nature sheds its previous season’s colours for a vibrant new palette every few months. Visiting different valleys, I realised that each one has a trademark personality. While Gulmarg is a skier's paradise of deliciously arched slopes, the bowl-shaped meadow of Doodhpatri reveals itself only after driving through some dramatic bends. Other famous spots include Sonamarg, Yusmarg, Pahalgam, Aharbal Falls, Sinthan Top & Gurez Valley, each one more stunning than the last. Roads serve as the primary links between the valleys & taxis are usually hired from Srinagar for the duration of the trip. Before planning a visit, it's best to check the weather first, as unpredictable conditions mean roads are sometimes closed for days or even months. As these spots generally tend to be overcrowded, they are best enjoyed as day trips from Srinagar.
The real beauty of the landscape, however, is revealed through walking. Adventure enthusiasts & trekkers often embark on multi-day journeys to remote, alpine lakes like Tulian, Marsar, Tarsar, Kausar Nag, & Gadsar, which are accessible only on foot or horseback. The trails can be tough, but they lead to places that are nothing short of heaven itself!
The magic of Kashmir is its ability to make you live in the present. The nature is so beautiful that you can’t help but relax. There’s no rush to get somewhere or achieve everything in a single day. The noise levels in most places (with the exception of popular tourist spots) are low too. I often wondered if the slow pace of life was due to the cold weather. Freezing temperatures limit outdoor activity and naturally turn life inward, to family and simple comforts. Even the biggest city, Srinagar, is an enjoyable sojourn with its numerous gardens and the serene Dal Lake. With pleasant weather, charming streets and gorgeous mountain views, Srinagar is for the romantic at heart, perfect for evening strolls and snacking on warm local delicacies.
Shalimar Bagh ©Varsha Arun, 2025
Badamwari Park ©Varsha Arun, 2025
Kashmir’s beauty famously inspired many Mughal emperors to build stunning gardens around their summer retreats here. Mughal gardens are symmetrically planned on either side of a central axis, usually marked by a water channel running along the length of the garden. The land’s natural slope is cleverly used to direct water into channels and fountains. Rows of colourful flowers set against scenic mountain backdrops make these gardens, or Charbaghs, a masterclass in landscape architecture. Today, this legacy lives on in Srinagar’s renowned gardens, especially Nishat Bagh and Shalimar Bagh. Recent additions like the Tulip Garden & Badamwari Park (look out for this gem!) are highly enjoyable too.
Lately, the effects of climate change are beginning to show ecological strain in Kashmir. Perhaps the most significant change is the rapid melting of the Himalayan glaciers. As winters grow shorter & summers hotter, the impacts of this are alarming; from accelerated glacial melting causing flash floods followed by periods of water scarcity, to frequent landslides from unpredictable rain. Locals are witnessing a significant shift from the reliably cool climate the region was known for just a decade ago.
Central water channel at Nishat Bagh, Dal lake seen in the distance ©Varsha Arun, 2025
Effects of climate change ©DH
The climate directly affects the economy. Unpredictable weather puts agricultural harvests at risk, causing farmers to face losses, while in the city, the tourism industry suffers as the region's famed climate becomes increasingly unreliable. This is not a distant threat, but a present-day crisis unfolding in real time.
Life amid Uncertainty
Winter morning at Dal lake ©Varsha Arun, 2025
Kashmir is a land of duality; each season is beautiful, and each season is challenging. While life here is already demanding on account of the weather & terrain, it’s made further difficult by the region's complex geopolitics. The economy, too, is bifold. It is powered on one hand by tourism and the other by the global export of cultural and agricultural goods. This is where Pashmina shawls, Attar fragrances, Ambri apples and the mysterious Shilajit come from.
Life in Kashmir is a lesson in resilience, amid uncertainty & steady tension. But far from being defined by their hardships, Kashmiris remain hopeful and resolute in their everyday routines. The zeal for their homeland is infectious. While demonstrations occur periodically, they are generally peaceful, with a conscious effort to shield tourists from disruption. Security forces are a common sight, enforcing curfews strictly and closely monitoring protests to maintain order.
Witnessing agitations firsthand can be an intense experience for outsiders. As we were on our way to Gulmarg one morning, we encountered such an agitation. We quietly watched from the car as the police halted traffic for a group of marchers who carried huge flags & were loudly chanting slogans. Our driver calmly explained that such events are normal in the valley. What particularly stood out was that the group was a segregated one; men walking at the front, women & children marching at the back. Even though they walked separately, there was no doubt that they were fully united in their beliefs.
On the other side of these agitations are the armed forces. Their hardships are equally, if not more severe than those of the locals. A shared gondola ride to the peak of Kongdori with two young Jawans gave insight into the tough conditions of remote postings. They face a triple threat daily: nature, militancy, civil unrest. Surviving these demanding roles is only possible thanks to their rigorous training. An important part of their duties is ensuring tourists' safety, a year-round challenge in a destination as popular as Kashmir. "If we survive Kashmir, we can survive anywhere," one of them states, matter-of-factly. He’s got a smile on his face.
Aru Valley, Pahalgam ©Varsha Arun, 2025
Gulmarg gondola ©Varsha Arun, 2025
Kindness Amid Difficulty
Shikhara boating on Dal Lake ©Varsha Arun, 2025
The locals are a kind, helpful & hospitable people. Thanks to a deeply ingrained culture of Mehmaan Nawazi, there's a real sense that they're looking out for you, that your comfort as a visitor matters. We'd stop for a quick snack and find ourselves in a 20-minute conversation that would somehow end with a dinner invitation to someone's home... sometimes on the very day we met! Shops too, close early in the valleys. This is not a place for loud revelry, but for communal bonding.
Community is the cornerstone of Kashmiri society. There's an unspoken bond where everyone looks out for each other. During times of hardship, people immediately come together as one unit. A perfect example of this interconnectedness is how the tourism industry operates here.
To travel between valleys, you'll likely be transferred from a city-based driver to a local guide in each tourist town. This isn't random, but part of a calculated network where travel agents work with trusted locals. It ensures that economic opportunity is shared, proving that the community looks after its own, even in business.
Most Kashmiris have simple aspirations: comfortable lives, economic opportunity, and the chance to build a bright future in their own homeland. Yet, many are forced to leave in search of education and jobs, with few returning unless it is to run their businesses. The business landscape, often rooted in traditional family-run models, has yet to catch up with technology and marketing trends of the rest of the country. While the warmth of the people is incredible, the service industry is still in its early stages.
Charting Kashmir's economic progress ©DH
His vibrant personality turned a 30-min auto ride into an unforgettable memory ©Varsha Arun, 2025
For Kashmir to truly prosper, it can't just be a tourist destination. It needs to become a hub that’s on par with today’s standards. That means building better colleges and attracting big companies to invest here. The passion & dedication of the youth can be channeled into tech innovation, business leadership, and creative entrepreneurship, rather than limiting their potential to traditional roles. Cultivating this outward-looking, ambitious mindset is the only way to build a lasting peace. When people are busy building their dreams, they have less time for conflict.
Even as they face such challenges, the constant optimism of its people is remarkable. “What’s the secret to finding happiness here?” I ask our taxi driver as he gently turns the steering wheel, hugging a dangerously slippery, rain-slicked road. “Let go of trying to control nature,” he says, coaxing the car with effortless grace. “Embrace the fact that Kashmir welcomes everyone with open arms. Be thankful for your family & aim to live a simple life.” He’s driven these routes a thousand times before. We glide along like butter.
Kashmir Tomorrow
On my return, I reflected on a Kashmir that is in the middle of an identity evolution. The region is navigating a new political & social reality, and while the path ahead is challenging, a fragile hope is now visible where conflict once dominated. This hope, seen in the faces of its people, must be met with tangible investments in infrastructure, a resilient economy, and environmental preservation. With a little effort & lots of willpower, future Kashmir won’t just look like a paradise but will be one to live in too.
To know Kashmir is to see beyond the Instagram-perfect views and political talk. It is to listen to the stories of its people, who are not foreigners but fellow citizens of this country. When we make that human connection, we are really seeing & acknowledging those who have been hidden behind preconceived notions. In that exchange, integration moves from a political concept to a lived truth.
Looking on the bright side, from Pari Mahal ©Varsha Arun, 2025
My trip wouldn’t have been the amazing experience it was without Travelpack Kashmir.
For a smooth, stress-free, and unforgettable experience, they’re the best. Here's my review of the trip.
Check out my travel album for some amazing Kashmir clicks.