Varsha Arun
All About Angkor
Ancient Angkor has always been a mystery to the world. One visit will tell you why. Two words sum it up best: Intrigue and exhilaration. The first captures the anticipation before the visit, and the second reflects the awe felt upon experiencing it.
With thousands of temples across Cambodia, the sheer number and scale can be overwhelming. How does someone choose what to see and what to leave out? If you're planning a visit and aren't sure where to start, here's how to tailor your trip to focus on your interests and make the most of your experience.
Temple mountains such as Bapuon are typical to Khmer temple-building ©Varsha Arun, 2022
A little history
Before visiting Angkor, it is important to understand that while Angkor Wat may be the most famous & elaborate example of Khmer architecture, but it is by no means the only one. When people think of Cambodia, it is the image of Angkor Wat at sunrise that pops in to their heads, but over 1,000 Khmer temples exist across Cambodia, with few in Vietnam & Thailand even. The Angkor Archeological Park alone has over 50 temples, with over 20 more in nearby locations. The early temple styles dating to the 6th century, the dawn of the Khmer civilization, can be seen at Sambor Prei Kuk (learn more on my page XXX). They are of a 'Pre-Angkorean' style which seems to be the infancy of Angkorean architecture.
Red & green tourist circuits around Angkor Archeological park ©Maximal
It wasn't until the 12th and 13th centuries that the pinnacle of Khmer architecture emerged with temples like Angkor Wat and the entire Angkor Thom compound. These were not just religious sites but thriving towns, complete with moats and houses, all built around the temple at the center. Little evidence remains today of other town buildings which were likely wooden structures, and only the stone structures of the temples remain. Ravaged by time, nature and successive kingdoms, they were rediscovered by French archaeologists in the late 19th century. Angkor has since undergone extensive restoration, making the sites accessible to visitors. While Angkor Wat lives upto its title of being the largest religious complex in the world, other significant temples like Bayon, Ta Prohm, and Banteay Srei are equally impressive in size, scale, and skill, leaving visitors in awe of the incredible achievements of the ancient Khmers.
Click for a virtual look into the Angkor park ©Varsha Arun, 2022
Common themes across ancient Angkor
Peaceful face spire of Bayon ©Varsha Arun, 2022
The Khmer temples are primarily Hindu-Buddhist, reflecting the kings' Indian heritage and their gradual turn to Buddhism. As a result, many temples feature repetitive carvings of Hindu mythological scenes. The scenes on lintels, columns, etc are highly detailed work. Apart from mythology, they are also inspired scenes from life in that era. Built mainly with laterite stone, sandstone, and bricks, the temples follow a similar design template—after seeing a couple, many aspects may feel familiar.
However, subtle differences set each temple apart, whether in the layout, artistic interpretations, or the proportions of certain elements. Some temples emphasize verticality while others highlight the interplay of spaces. Others, like the Bayon, demonstrate the remarkable eye of the sculptors, with its 37 towering face spires that are nothing short of monumental. While each temple is unique, visiting too many in a short period can lead to temple fatigue, making them hard to distinguish. It’s best to focus on the major temples, give them the time they deserve, and take frequent breaks, particularly during the hottest parts of the day.
The most extensive Khmer relief work can be seen at Banteay Srei ©Varsha Arun, 2022
Things to know before visiting Angkor Temples
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Entry passes (1-day, 3-day, or 7-day) are required for the Angkor Archaeological Park and must be purchased in person at the Angkor Ticket Office, located 4km north of Siem Reap on the way to the Angkor complex or online through the Angkor Enterprise portal. A biometric verification will be done, and your pass will include this information for security. No other tickets are valid & the passes should be kept handy at all times when you're visiting the temples. Learn more here: https://angkorenterprise.gov.kh/plan/38/entrance-tickets-regulations.
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Angkor passes grant access to nearly all temples within the Angkor complex, as well as a few more distant ones. Click here for the list: https://angkorenterprise.gov.kh/temple.
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It’s important to carry your pass with you always, as being caught without one can result in a fine.
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The pass allows unlimited entries during its validity. It will be checked each time you enter, allowing entry & exit as often as you like.
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Multi-day passes do not need to be used on consecutive days, as long as they are within their validity period. For example, a 3-day pass is valid for 10 days from the first use. If you use it on Day 1, you can choose the next visits to be on Day 2 & Day 3, or on Day 5 & Day 9 even, as long as it's within the 10-day window.
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Each temple has its own opening and closing times, with most closing by 5:30pm. While I’ve suggested visit plans here, make sure to check the timings to allow for flexible planning of your visit.
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Angkor Wat & Sra Ssrang - 5am to 5.30 pm
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Phnom Bakheng & Pre Rup - 5am to 7pm
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Other temples - 7.30am to 5.30pm
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The best time to visit Angkor Wat is at sunrise as the breathtaking view is truly unmatched. Typically occurring around 5:30 a.m., it attracts large crowds who gather in the early morning darkness, eagerly whispering and awaiting the perfect photo. Moreover, exploring Angkor just as the sun rays filter through it is really the most ethereal experience.
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The temples are sacred sites. Dress appropriately with knees and shoulders covered.
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The temple zones are strictly non-smoking and non-littering zones.
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Apart from a food court near the west entry of Angkor Wat, there are small roadside eateries offering simple, local food similar to Sambor Prei. If you're vegetarian, it's recommended to pack your own food.
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Tuk-tuks or taxis are the most convenient way to get around Siem Reap and the Angkor complex. While cycling is an option, it can be tiring when combined with walking through the large temple complexes. Summers are particularly challenging for cycling.
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Guided Angkor tours are plentiful in Siem Reap, but they often offer only basic information; in other words, an unnecessary expense. For those seeking a deeper understanding of the temples, tourist handbooks are easily a better and more effective alternative. My personal recommendation is Ancient Angkor by Michael Freeman and Claude Jacques, a book easily available in most Siem Reap souvenir shops.
Apsaras & rounded stone window columns, Angkor Wat ©Varsha Arun, 2022
Morning walk, Angkor Wat ©Varsha Arun, 2022
Time required
Scenes from the Mahabharata, Angkor Wat ©Varsha Arun, 2022
Your experience of Angkor depends largely on how much time you have and what you most want to see. It’s almost always a battle between quantity & quality. Some visitors stay in Siem Reap for months, exploring a temple a day—and even that may not be enough. Each temple tells countless stories through its intricate details, making it impossible to fully grasp Angkor’s history at the first glance. Built over centuries, the temples' styles and stories were continuously evolving till the eventual decline of the dynasty, making it hard to pinpoint which were built first or their original purposes. Despite over a century of archaeological work, many of Angkor’s secrets remain uncovered. Who knows, maybe some will reveal themselves to you, too.
Depending on how much time you have, here's a brief overview of what you can explore, followed by a detailed itinerary below. For a complete 6-day Cambodia itinerary, visit my Cambodia itinerary page.
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1 Day – It’s best to focus solely on the Angkor Archaeological Park and explore its most iconic temples. The popular small circuit (red) route is a great way to see the highlights (refer to map above).
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2-3 Days – This allows enough time to explore the entire archaeological park, along with other significant temples nearby. The large circuit (green) route covers all the monuments within the park (refer to map above).
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Beyond 3 days - You can take your time and leisurely see the temples at your pace. The itinerary below lists the must-see temples, so you can plan your days accordingly.
Now, let's dive in!
Day 1 (Perfect for a one-day visit of Angkor complex)
Angkor Wat ©Varsha Arun, 2022
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Visit Angkor Wat for a sunrise view - The trip to Angkor Wat from Siem Reap takes about 20 mins in Tuk-Tuk. Hotels can make arrangements for a driver and few even provide packed breakfast on request. If passes have to bought on the way, leave as early as 4.30am. If they have already been obtained, leaving at 5am would be ideal.
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A visit of Angkor Wat takes at least two hours, so it's best to start early before temperatures rise, making it harder to explore later in the day. Most tourists gather at the Western side of the temple, near the reflecting ponds, for the classic sunrise view over the spires. However, I recommend the Eastern view, where the first rays of sunlight highlight the intricate details of the architecture, showcasing the sculptors' craftsmanship. Visiting Angkor Wat is a rare, awe-inspiring experience that leaves you marveling at the grandeur of the past. Savor every moment.
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Exit the temple grounds through its West side and head to the Angkor Parvis food court for a break.
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Ask your driver to pick you up from the Western parking lot and head to Banteay Kdei & Srah Srang - 1 hour visiting duration for both.
Banteay Kdei and Srah Srang ©Varsha Arun, 2022
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Head to Ta Prohm - Ta Prohm is renowned for its labyrinthine layout and haunting views of overgrown roots from giant silk-cotton trees and strangler figs intertwining with the temple. This unique appearance was intentionally preserved by archaeologists in its 'natural state' to show how the temples at Angkor were originally discovered. The parasitic trees have taken root in the temple’s cracks and grown over centuries. The temple too relies on them; without the roots for support, walls and roofs would collapse.
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Ta Prohm gained global fame rivaling that of Angkor Wat after being featured in a scene in Angelina Jolie's Tomb Raider (2001), and its eerie atmosphere has since made it a popular destination, though it is now very crowded. A visit typically takes 1-1.5 hrs.
Left in its "overgrown" & "ruinous" state, Ta Prohm exhibits a symbiotic relationship with nature ©Varsha Arun, 2022
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Proceed to Ta Keo - A visit to this temple usually takes 50 mins including a steep climb to the top.
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This would be a good time for a lunch break before moving towards the Angkor Thom compound.
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Enter into Angkor Thom compound through the East Gate (aka Victory Gate) - The approach to the gate is stunning in itself and makes for a great photo backdrop, particularly the bridge with Naga balustrades. On either side of the road are the Thommanon and Chau Say Tevoda temples, which feature typical Khmer architecture but aren’t extraordinary. If you have extra time, each temple can be explored in about 30 minutes respectively.
Ta Keo, the 'Mountain' ©Varsha Arun, 2022
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Once you cross the victory gate, you have now entered the Royal Enclosure (aka Angkor Thom) complex - This was one of the finest & largest of all Khmer cities, indicating its prestigious role as a state capital.
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As the Terrace of the Elephants looms ahead, you will pass 12 identical towers on either side of the road, arranged in two rows. These are the Suor Prasat towers and stand in a huge clearing opposite to the Elephant Terrace. These can be viewed from far with the best views being from either end.
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Take a right just before the dead end in front of the Terrace of the Elephants, and stop at the approach to Tep Pranam & Preah Palilay - 30 mins combined visiting duration. Arrange for the driver to meet you at the south entrance of Bayon Temple in a few hours, as you'll be exploring on foot from here and making your way there as the final stop in Angkor Thom.
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Walk to the Terrace of the Leper King - 20 mins visiting duration. The structure has some of the finest reliefs in Angkor and the maze-like trenches through which you must walk to see them are a treat.
Victory gate, Terraces of the Leper King & Elephants ©Varsha Arun, 2022
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Exit towards the Terrace of the Elephants - 20 mins visiting duration. Located at the heart of Angkor Thom, the terrace seems to have been a platform used to erect royal pavilions during grand processions & receptions.
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The terrace has five stairways, with the one closest to the Leper King Terrace being the most interesting. It has undergone several modifications over the reigns of successive Khmer kings, including a rare depiction of a five-headed horse. The terrace provides panoramic views of the royal grounds, with the Suor Prasat towers visible across the road.
Suor Prasat towers seen in the distance from the Elephant terrace & Phimeanakas with surrounding remnants ©Varsha Arun, 2022
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Exit the terrace via the central stairway and head to Phimeanakas - 15 mins visiting duration. Climbing the temple is prohibited due its fragile state, but it can be explored by walking around it. The temple is actually the center of a royal palace enclosure but only traces of the palace remain.
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Walk towards Bapuon - 40 mins visiting duration. Climbing Bapuon’s steep levels is like scaling a pyramid, but the stunning views from the top make it worthwhile. The serene galleries at each level are peaceful to walk through and the long approach ramp is a marvel by itself.
Bapuon & its approach ramp ©Varsha Arun, 2022
Steep climb, Bapuon ©Varsha Arun, 2022
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Proceed to Bayon - 2 hrs visiting duration. A feat of ancient engineering and sculpture, Bayon is most well known for its mass of giant face-towers that create the illusion of ascending mountain peaks and a complex layout that reveals something new at every turn. How the artisans managed to achieve identical peaceful expressions on the faces is a complete mystery. Best visited at late noon, the illuminated faces evoke a sense of overwhelming humility.
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Meet your driver & proceed to Phnom Bakheng for a fantastic sunset view - 1 hr visiting duration. The temple closes at 7pm, offering ample time to reach the summit and enjoy the sunset. Climbing the steep temple steps is prohibited. Instead, a 15-minute trekking path circling around the hill leads to the top. From here, you can admire the expansive view, including a clear sight of Angkor Wat, highlighting its vast scale.
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This can be postponed to the next day if you're too tired. The map below shows the entire Angkor site, with the day's itinerary marked by the dotted line and numbered sights.
Bayon ©Varsha Arun, 2022
Aerial view of Angkor Archeological Park
Sightseeing progression (Red Circuit) ©tourismcambodia.com, Varsha Arun
Click to zoom.
Day 2
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Since the day will involve visiting distant temples, renting a taxi is recommended. The entry to the following places is covered in the Angkor passes.
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Drive to either Kbal Spean or Beng Mealea - Depending on your interest, you can visit either of these two sites, each about an hour's drive from Siem Reap, albeit in different directions (visiting both requires a full day dedicated to these two sites). Both require at least 1.5 hrs for a full visit.
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Kbal Spean is a bridge over a stream of the Siem Reap River, near which are located hundreds of mythological carvings on the riverbed stones, some submerged and some visible depending on the water level. Seeing the carvings is a divine spiritual experience. To reach the bridge, hike 30 mins through the forest from the parking lot. Then walk downstream where the carvings are spread along 150 mtrs along the stream before it dips into a waterfall. Depending on the current, you may even enjoy a refreshing dip.
Carvings of lingas and a reclining Vishnu on the riverbed of Kbal Spean ©boy_anupong, ar.inspiredpencil.com
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Beng Mealea is the closest thing to a real-life Temple Run adventure. Mostly unrestored, it has been left in its discovered state, with collapsed structures and overgrown nature creating a poetic chaos. While some chambers still stand, visitors will mainly explore the fallen ruins, navigating unpredictable ups and downs. Its beauty lies in its wild, untamed state. Due to its remote location, it sees less footfall and has a mystic aura to it.
Beng Mealea ©Varsha Arun, 2022
The wild chaos of Beng Mealea is in stark contrast to the artistic perfection at Banteay Srei ©Varsha Arun, 2022
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Head to Banteay Srei - 40 mins visiting duration. The temple boasts some of the finest carvings in Angkor, with every angle being a picture-perfect view. The pink sandstone, compact layout, and remote location hint at it being a women's temple. The well-developed tourist center offers a perfect spot for a lunch break during sightseeing.
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Although not part of the Angkor archeological sites, drop by the Cambodia Landmine Museum - 40 mins visiting duration. An inspiring story and some shocking remnants of war reveal the brutalities & impact of the Khmer Rouge. A must-visit sight. To know more, see https://www.cambodialandminemuseum.org.
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While returning to Siem Reap, take a small detour to Banteay Samre - 1 hr visiting duration. The restoration of the Banteay Samre is exceptional but due to its rather remote location, it hardly receives visitors. Those who visit find it to be one of the most beautiful temples at Angkor, having some of the best Khmer sculptures. Its peaceful setting provides a quiet space for exploration and photography, free from the crowds.
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If you missed Phnom Bakheng the previous day, stop by for the sunset experience on your way back to Siem Reap.
Landmine museum, Banteay Samre & Phnom Bakheng ©cambodiatourismfreeonline.blogspot.com, Varsha Arun, 2022
Day 3
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Ideally, it is recommended to go for a tour of any of the four floating villages on Tonle Sap lake in the first part of the day. It is a great way to learn more about these one-of-a-kind fishing settlements that practically do everything over water, including going to school or breed crocodiles. There are several tour operators for this but be sure to check the prices as they often over-charge. Information can easily be procured from your hotel or online. The more popular villages, Chong Kneas and Kampong Phluk, are closer to Siem Reap, but tours here often benefit private operators rather than the local community. Due to heavy tourism, villagers in Chong Kneas engage in showing off which comes across as inauthentic. For a more grounded and genuine experience, consider the more distant villages of Kampong Khleang or Meychrey, with Kampong Khleang being the cleaner and more scenic option.
Meychrey village ©Varsha Arun, 2022
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Proceed to the Angkor Thom compound to see the temples on the large circuit. It is ideal to take a Tuk-Tuk or taxi for the day's touring. It is recommended to stop for lunch en route or pack it for later, during a break between exploring the Angkor Thom temples.
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Once at the compound, head directly to Preah Khan - 1 hr visiting duration. With proof of having been used as a university as well as a city, Preah Khan has an atmosphere similar to Ta Prohm, but is of a larger scale. Enjoy the beautiful play of light and shadow as you stroll through the 2-storied structure.
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The map below shows the North-eastern temples at the Angkor site, with the day's itinerary marked by the dotted line and numbered sights.
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Proceed to Krol Ko - A quick glance under 10 mins is all you need for this small temple, with its repetitive reliefs.
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Walk along the Neak Pean bridge over to Neak Pean temple - 30 mins visiting duration. A very curious island monument with pools surrounding it, the Neak Pean is different from any other structures seen at Angkor. It is particularly beautiful during the monsoon when the pools are filled with water.
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Take the Tuk-Tuk over to Ta Som - 20 mins visiting duration. This small temple, a mini Banteay Kdei, can be skipped if not of specific interest.
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Proceed to East Mebon - 40 mins visiting duration. Once an island temple, East Mebon now sits in dry land. Its long galleries and elephant sculptures are key highlights.
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Head to Pre Rup - 1 hr visiting duration. Open till 7pm, the views of this temple are best at sunset when the brick & sandstone towers glow orange in the setting rays. The climb up to the upper terrace leaves you with some stunning vistas of the landscape.
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If possible, try to visit Prasat Kravan, which is just 10 mins away from Pre Rup, before its closing time of 5.30pm - 20 mins visiting duration. It can be visited after East Mebon if you don't want to miss the sunset at Pre Rup. This modest group of five temples features distinct bas-reliefs in the brick masonry.
Aerial view of Angkor Archeological Park
Sightseeing progression (Green circuit) ©tracyanddale.com, Varsha Arun
Click to zoom.
Made it to Angkor? Saw the Angkor Wat sunrise and the mammoth trees at Ta Keo?
What was your favourite spot? Share your thoughts with me!
Prasat Kravan ©Varsha Arun, 2022
References
Maximal. (2022). The Ultimate Guide to Visiting Angkor Wat in One Day. [online] Available at: https://itinku.com/the-ultimate-guide-to-visiting-angkor-wat-in-one-day/#How_Much_Does_the_Entrance_Fee_to_Angkor_Wat_Cost. [Accessed 12 Feb. 2025].
siemreap.net. (2022). Siem Reap’s Floating Villages – How to Visit Tonle Sap Lake Responsibly. [online] Available at: https://www.siemreap.net/attractions/sightseeing-nature/floating-villages/. [Accessed 12 Feb. 2025].
Angkor Enterprise. (n.d). Homepage. [online] Available at: https://angkorenterprise.gov.kh. [Accessed 7 Feb. 2025].
Freeman, Michael, and Claude Jacques. Ancient Angkor. River Books, (2013).