Varsha Arun
Sambor Prei Kuk: A Pre-Angkorean City
©Varsha Arun, 2022
Long before Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom rose to their claim as the architectural glory of the Khmer dynasty, there came the temples of Sambor Prei, dating back to the 7th century—nearly 5,000 years before work began on Angkor Wat. Here's why this ancient site deserves a spot on your travel itinerary when visiting Cambodia.
Sambor Prei is the precursor of the great city of Angkor or Yashodharapura (its original name). It belongs to the Chenla dynasty, the predecessor of the Khmer empire. It was known as the walled city of Isanapura in its time.
There are about 150 temples spread across 1,000 acres of forest park. The Angkor temples evolved from the crude design of these temples, which follow Hindu temple style - a template that came to Cambodia along with the first Tamil kings from the Deccan plateau.
Sambor Prei is perfect for those seeking an intimate exploration of the Khmer history and architecture. Nestled in a remote location, surrounded by the stillness of nature, it remains largely untouched by crowds. Few visitors come here; the site a pleasant picnic spot for locals and a hidden gem for history and art enthusiasts eager to delve into the origins of the Khmer Empire. You can peacefully walk around, spotting recognizable features in the reliefs, some of which are earlier versions of elaborately detailed mythological scenes found at Angkor. It's best to visit Sambor Prei before exploring Angkor, as it's a preview of what's to come. Seeing Angkor first may shadow this experience, as Sambor Prei lacks the intricate details that define Angkor's grandeur.
The temples have suffered significant weathering and ruin ©Varsha Arun, 2022
It's also a delight for archaeology enthusiasts, who will be captivated by the lasting nature of the stone and brick temples. The structures show all signs of ravages of time; yet they have endured centuries, forming a harmonious relationship with the surroundings. Some of the temples are swallowed whole by overgrown trees, a sight not uncommon at Cambodian archeological sites. The haunting appearance is perfect as a thriller movie backdrop, its eeriness amplified by the silence around. Unlike the commotion at the similarly ravaged Ta Prohm at Angkor, Sambor Prei offers a more tranquil experience, allowing visitors to enjoy the site at a more leisurely and less restricted pace.
The park is subdivided into 3 groups for easy categorization - South, North and Central. Visitors typically begin at one end and complete a loop, exploring all the temples along the way. Ongoing conservation efforts are being made at some temples, restricting complete entry.
A leisurely visit takes about 3 hours, with the park located about 3.5 hours north of Phnom Penh, en route to Siem Reap. The site is best accessed by private vehicle, as public transportation is not practical due to its remoteness. I found it best to get dropped at the South group and make your way via the Central group towards the North Group where your taxi can pick you up. Dining options are limited to few roadside restaurants, so it's advisable to bring your own food.
There's beauty in imperfection and that's exactly what Sambor Prei Kuk stands for. Visiting the site gave me a glimpse into the foundational architectural principles that the Khmers developed and refined at Angkor. Sambor Prei Kuk remains relatively unknown, becoming a UNESCO World Heritage site only recently in 2017. Its importance is unique in Cambodian history, telling stories of an early civilization. At Sambor Prei, it's easy to visualize yourself as a citizen of Isanapura ascending a gentle hill toward a temple to offer your morning prayers, sunlight streaming through the foliage as you walk.
Map of Sambor Prei Kuk site ©canbypublications.com
Notes
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If you're looking for a complete Cambodia itinerary, visit my 6-day Cambodia itinerary page.
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If you need help organizing your trip, you can reach out to the amazing Mr. Peter (info@khmerdetours.com) from Khmer Detours! He was my go-to contact on the ground and quickly arranged everything at a very reasonable price. Resourceful, transparent, and highly reliable, Peter goes above and beyond to ensure a smooth experience. I can’t recommend him enough to anyone visiting Cambodia—he’ll do everything he can to make your trip unforgettable.
References
Wikipedia. (n.d). Sambor Prei Kuk. [online] Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sambor_Prei_Kuk. [Accessed 06 Apr. 2025].
UNESCO. (2017). Temple Zone of Sambor Prei Kuk, Archaeological Site of Ancient Ishanapura. [online] Available at: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1532. [Accessed 06 Apr. 2025].
©Varsha Arun, 2022