Varsha Arun
'Wat' about Phnom Penh?
Royal Palace lit up at night, Phnom Penh ©Varsha Arun, 2022
When we hear of Cambodia, the figurative shadows of Angkor temples often eclipse the rest of the country. But Cambodia has a lot more to offer than Angkor. Its capital, Phnom Penh, is a city of many identities, evolving from a tumultuous past into a hopeful future. Having emerged from decades of turmoil about only 40 years ago, it is new to development.
The fledgling city, a melting pot of Khmer, French and modern sensibilities, has a palpable energy that caught me by surprise. I couldn't help but go along with the flux of a laid-back vibe mingled with refreshing liveliness in the air. If any place could embody 'vibrance', it would have to be Phnom Penh.
Origins
The title above is a deliberate reference to the legend of Phnom Penh's foundation. The story goes as such.....
In 1372, a wealthy widow named Lady Penh found four Buddha statues floating on the Tonle Sap river after a storm. Taking it as a divine sign, she had a temple built for the statues on a hill near her hometown of Chaktomuk (previous name of Phnom Penh). This temple stands tall as the namesake of Cambodia's capital today. In Khmer language, "Wat" means temple, and "Phnom" means hill, so the name of the temple, Wat Phnom, translates to "Temple on the Hill." The city that developed around it came to be named Phnom Penh after both the hill and Lady Penh.
Phnom Penh became the capital of the once-powerful Khmer kingdom in 1434 (during its decline), which is why the city lacks the grand temples that are the hallmark of Khmer legacy. When the kingdom fell 61 years later, a long period of instability followed, with competing dynasties fighting for control. Eventually, in 1863, Cambodia came under French protection when King Norodom signed a treaty with French colonists, who had already occupied parts of neighboring Vietnam and were looking to expand their territory towards Siam (present-day Thailand). This brought Cambodia to a period of relative peace, stability and economic renewal. While the monarchy still retained its social standing, all governance was left to French generals. The lively city has been the economic, political and business capital of Cambodia ever since then. It has seen true struggle and carries the scars of trauma in its soul, embracing change for the better and offering hope for its people emerging from a very dark past.
Specifics
Why you should visit - Phnom Penh offers that rare combination of city life with a laid back, Boho-chic culture. While it's the business center of Cambodia and has the usual morning & evening buzz typical of metropolises, it has also got a slow moving, relaxed pace, perfect for a workcation or short getaways. Known for some really exotic cuisines (think Scorpions & Alligators), it has got culinary experiences of every kind. Since it's also a major tourist hub, lots of native crafts and artefacts can be found here easily.
Traces of Cambodia's past are everywhere in Phnom Penh. Its most recent historical event being the genocide of the 70s under the Khmer Rouge, the city has not shied away from preserving the memory of this dark chapter through powerful sites like the Tuol Sleng Museum and the Choeung Ek Killing Fields, where visitors can learn about the tragic past and honor the victims.
Khmer architecture ©Varsha Arun, 2022
The city’s religious landmarks, like Wat Phnom and Royal Palace, showcase its Khmer heritage and Hindu-Buddhist roots, while the influence of French colonialism is evident in entire neighborhoods and iconic Neo-classical buildings like the Central Market and Chaktomuk Hall. Walking along wide, shaded avenues, I couldn’t help but feel like I was in Pondicherry, with its charming European aura. Phnom Penh’s true appeal lies in its riverfront Sisowath Quay, which runs along the Tonle Sap River and offers stunning views, especially at dusk. The riverside promenade is always lively, with vendors and locals strolling along, creating the perfect atmosphere for a relaxing evening walk. With rooftop restro-bars & pubs lining the promenade, pub crawling is a favorite among locals and tourists alike.
Phnom Penh is the place to first touchdown when visiting Cambodia as it makes for the perfect introduction to a multi-layered culture; one that wears its scars proudly, celebrates its people and opens your eyes to an unimaginable history.
When to visit - The best time to visit is between November and February, when the weather is pleasantly cool, though it’s also the peak tourist season. One of the highlights during this period is the Bon Om Touk, a 3-day boat festival held every November. It's an exciting showcase of Cambodian culture, and if you plan to attend, be sure to check the exact dates in advance!
How to reach - By flight, of course! The Phnom Penh International Airport connects to all major South-Asian hubs.
Time required - 2 to 3 days.
How to get around - Tuk-tuks, tuk-tuks, tuk-tuks! Use Grab or Pass app to easily book these. They work just like Uber & my experience with was so smooth! It's affordable, quick, reliable and convenient.
Sights to see
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum - If you haven't heard of the Khmer Rouge or Pol Pot, consider yourself lucky. Tuol Sleng, now a museum, was once the most notorious prison of the Khmer Rouge regime in the 1970s. Originally a high school, it was repurposed by the Khmer Rouge to imprison and torture those they deemed "traitors," "rebels," or "impure." Thousands of victims were subjected to brutal torture, with some of the most extreme devices designed to publicly humiliate and break their spirits. The classrooms remain preserved as they were during this time, showcasing the horrors of the regime—torture devices, cramped wooden cells, and barbed wire to prevent suicides. Some rooms still bear bloodstains and graphic photos of the victims, deliberately preserved to let visitors experience the inmates' suffering firsthand.
The Khmer Rouge’s totalitarian reign of terror led to mass killings and the destruction of at least a quarter of Cambodia's population. The regime tore families apart, orphaned thousands, and indoctrinated children to become ruthless soldiers, vassals of extremist propaganda. This period of extreme inhumanity inflicted deep psychological scars that still affect every Cambodian, as nearly everyone has lost a family member in the genocide. I was fortunate to meet one of the only 12 survivors of S-21 prison, as Tuol Sleng was named during the Khmer Rouge, and hear his heartbreaking story. Standing at this site, it's impossible not to be profoundly moved.
The scars of this dark history are still fresh, and no Cambodian can forget the atrocities of the Khmer Rouge. Tucked in a quiet neighborhood, in stark contrast to its violent past, Tuol Sleng stands as a testament to the resilience of the Cambodian people and a haunting reminder of the horrors political ideologies can inflict. At the time of the Khmer Rouge's rule, political cover-ups prevented word of what was taking place in Cambodia from reaching the rest of the world. It's crucial for the world, today more than ever, to understand what happened in Cambodia. We must learn from this history to ensure such atrocities are never repeated.
Note: Despite being a museum, this is not a picnic spot or a place to take kids. It takes about 2-3 hrs to explore the museum in depth. Learn more here: https://tuolsleng.gov.kh/en/.
Tuol Sleng has intentionally preserved the spaces as they were during the Khmer Rouge regime.
Some items are graphic in nature & have been blurred in these photos ©Varsha Arun, 2022
Choeung Ek Killing Fields - The true horror of the Khmer Rouge extends far beyond the torture in their prisons. They conducted mass executions periodically, hauling truckloads of prisoners to killing fields, where they were executed and dumped one over the other into mass graves. Choeung Ek, once an orchard on the city's outskirts, is now a beautiful memorial park, that looks serene on the surface, but with a haunting undercurrent of its past use as a mass burial ground.
A central tower displays the remains of over 8,000 victims that have been exhumed after the fall of the regime in 1979. The victims have been identified & catalogued by their age, gender, killing method used, etc. A stroll through the park takes you on a vivid journey into how victims were brought here, tortured and then killed using various methods. Remnants of cloth can still be seen scattered on the ground in certain areas. It was the most infamous of the 344 Khmer Rouge killing fields, with most of its victims brought from S-21 prison, the nearest detention camp.
Though the subject of Choeung Ek is grim, the presentation is subdued, ensuring visitors are not overwhelmed.
Choeung Ek killing fields ©Varsha Arun, 2022
Wat Phnom - A visit to Phnom Penh is not complete without paying a visit to the sacred Wat Phnom sanctuary, sitting atop the Phnom hill. Learn about the story of the city's birth, seek blessings, take in the Cambodian architecture and spend some time in the shade of the large trees. It's best visited in the early morning.
Royal Palace & grounds - Nestled by the riverside, the Royal Palace stands as a breathtaking example of Cambodian culture, with its shimmering golden roofs and meticulously maintained gardens. As a living palace, still home to the royal family, only certain sections are open to the public. The highlight is the sacred Silver Pagoda, named for the 5,000 silver tiles that adorn its floor. It houses a life-sized golden Buddha dripping in diamonds among other valuable art objects, offering a glimpse into the riches of Cambodian royalty and their spiritual sincerity. It is an enthralling visit, particularly during dusk hours.
Climbing Phnom hill ©Visit Koh Rong
Royal Palace & the Silver Pagoda ©Indochina Voyages Travel Consultants
National Museum of Cambodia - Located right across from the Palace grounds, it's best clubbed with a visit to the Royal Palace. The red building with its traditional Khmer-style sloping roofs stands out.. Housing about 2,000 artefacts, it's the right place to get a taste of Angkor temples before heading to see the real ones. Learn more here: https://www.cambodiamuseum.info/en_collection.html.
Sisowath Quay - A wide promenade on the riverside of Tonle Sap river, it's a nice place to spend evenings enjoying the cool breeze and beautiful park. People come here to walk, chat, skate, jog and what's more - it's also well-known for its street food scene and nightlife, with plenty of sky bars lining the promenade, overlooking the river. You may want to take a river cruise and enjoy the city skyline. The views of the Royal Palace lit up at night across the street are particularly captivating. Located at the meeting point of the Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers, it also hosts the annual Bon Om Tuk boat race, the best showcase of Phnom Penh's vibrant festive spirit.
National Museum entrance ©Leighton Travels
Prepping for the boat race as crowds cheer on ©Khmer Times
Chaktomuk Hall ©Varsha Arun, 2022
Chaktomuk Conference Hall - Located at one end of the Sisowath Quay, its art-deco architecture is a curiosity.
Independence Monument - Tower commemorating Cambodia's independence from France in 1954.
Wat Ounalom Monastery - 15th Century traditional Buddhist temple.
PH Euro Park - European-themed park with world-famous European landmarks.
Markets
Phnom Penh is home to many lively markets, whether you're looking for food or souvenirs. Tourists will love the vibrant atmosphere of these spots, which are perfect for experiencing Phnom Penh like a local.
Central Market - Famous for its Art-Deco appearance, it hosts a large number of stalls selling everything from handicrafts to clothing.
Russian Market - Great for trying out exotic street food & with a more open approach to bargaining. It has a relaxed vibe.
Night Market - Situated at the end of the Sisowath Quay, it's a bustling spot for street food, shopping, live music and performances at night.
Olympic Market - Bustling marker popular for its variety of fabrics, including traditional Khmer textiles.
Orussey Market - Large indoor market offering a wide range of products as well as fresh produce, including fresh fruits, vegetables, and seafood.
Central market ©JM Travel Photography
Essential tips
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Short duration tourist SIMs can be bought at the airport on arrival or in any local shop for about 2-3 USD.
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While Riel (KHR) is the national currency, USD is widely accepted and commonly used for all transactions. While you can pay in either USD or KHR, change is typically returned in KHR.
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Tuk-Tuks are the optimal way to get around. You can install Pass or Grab App for easy commutes. They work just like Uber & make it a breeze to get around.
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Some quick Khmer lingo to communicate with the driver -
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Turn right - bot dtoy s'dum
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Turn left - bot dtoy ch'wayng
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Go straight - dtov dtrong
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Please stop - som chob
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Restaurants of most cuisines are aplenty in Phnom Penh. Cambodia offers some unique and exotic meat-based dishes, especially in its street food scene. Don't be surprised to find scorpion on sticks, fried bugs, alligator meat, marinated eels, etc....
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Phnom Penh has a hopping nightlife. Explore some of the city's trendy spots to unwind after sundown.
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Be respectful of the local culture and people. It goes a long way when you need help. Wear appropriate clothes to religious sites, i.e, shoulders and knees should be covered.
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If you're looking for a complete Cambodia itinerary, visit my 6-day Cambodia itinerary page.
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If you need help organizing your trip, you can reach out to the amazing Mr. Peter (info@khmerdetours.com) from Khmer Detours! He was my go-to contact on the ground and quickly arranged everything at a very reasonable price. Resourceful, transparent, and highly reliable, Peter goes above and beyond to ensure a smooth experience. I can’t recommend him enough to anyone visiting Cambodia—he’ll do everything he can to make your trip unforgettable.
References
Patel, C. (2025). Phnom Penh Guide: Explore History, Hustle And The Heart Of Cambodia's Capital. [online] Available at: https://www.travelandleisureasia.com/hk/destinations/southeast-asia/phnom-penh-guide-explore-history-hustle-and-the-heart-of-cambodias-capital/. [Accessed 19 Feb. 2025].
Wikipedia. (n.d). French protectorate of Cambodia. [online] Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_protectorate_of_Cambodia. [Accessed 19 Feb. 2025].
Odynovo Tours. (2024). Bon Om Touk: Cambodian Water Festival 2025 / 2026. [online] Available at: https://www.odynovotours.com/cambodia/cambodian-water-festival.html. [Accessed 21 Feb. 2025].
Visit Koh Rong. (2023). Wat Phnom: Discovering Ancient Cambodia in the Heart of Phnom Penh. [online] Available at: https://www.visitkohrong.com/wat-phnom-temple/. [Accessed 05 Mar. 2025].
Indochina Voyages Travel Consultants. (n.d). Silver Pagoda Phnom Penh: A complete guide to understand and visit. [online] Available at: https://www.indochinavoyages.com/travel-blog/silver-pagoda-phnom-penh-cambodia. [Accessed 05 Mar. 2025].