Varsha Arun
The Charm of Chettinad
©Varsha Arun, 2023
There’s a little town, or rather, a network of towns in South India that has quite a story to tell. This is the story of the glorious but deserted mansions & empty halls of the affluent Nagarathar Chettiars. Step into one and you’ll forget where you are. The Chettinad houses are famous around where I’m from, their fame directly rooted in the backstory of the Chettiar community.
The Chettiars are members of the mercantile banking community whose business flourished during the 19th & early 20th centuries. Due to their extensive spices & salt trade with much of East Asia & Europe under the colonial umbrella, they came to be a highly successful and well-respected community. They were well-educated and well-traveled, having been able to visit different lands and observe foreign cultures. The Chettiar family trees are large, with their descendants still being people of status and prestige across many parts of the world. At the time when their activity was at its peak, the community was settled in a region they termed “Chettinadu” (meaning land of the Chettiars), located in the South Indian state of Tamil Nadu.
There are whole villages, about 70 of them as of today, that are populated with palatial mansions, each one built to house a joint family. That was a time when all the relatives lived under one roof, usually presided over by a patriarch and/or matriarch. We’re hardly familiar with joint families nowadays but these were the norm just as far back as 60 years ago. Families were tight-knit; cousins lived & went to school together, women shared the burden of household chores and the family businesses were run by the men. Families were not just contained within themselves but would be a part of the immediate society as well. On any given day, a house would have people dropping by for a quick visit & hot cup of tea. Festivals & functions were celebrated in public venues; a celebration in the family meant inviting the entire village (probably a few neighbouring villages too) and any gossip was every townsfolk’s business.
Family portraits are commonly on display in the mansions. They exhibit the regal aura of the Chettiars. ©Varsha Arun, 2023
The result of this lifestyle is a landscape of about 1550 sq. km dotted with clusters of grand bungalows. While the biggest town in Chettinadu is Karaikudi, it is the nearby towns of Kanadukathan & Athangudi that offer true insight into Chettinad life. Kanadukathan is THE town of palaces; streets are lined with mansion after mansion that could fall anywhere between being as good as new to slowly falling into disrepair. Some have even been left empty as their owners have settled abroad - plagued by inheritance feuds and neglect. It is evident from the padlocked gates of the ghost mansions that nature ultimately claims everything as its own.
While the house opposite is a ghost mansion, the one from which we see it is maintained to allow visitors. It is a paradox. ©Varsha Arun, 2023
Few mansions have descendants living there or are being maintained as museums. For a nominal fee of 50₹/visitor, anyone can step in and lounge like a wealthy merchant for a while.
Designs of Atahngudi tiles range from simple flowers to intricate & complex patterns. Here is one you’ll find in the gazebo at Athangudi Palace ©Varsha Arun, 2023
Athangudi is a smaller village than Kanadukathan, with the Athangudi Palace being its most notable attraction. This is also where the famous Athangudi tiles (cement-based tiles with ornate patterns made in oxide colours) originate from. A step into any of the numerous tile workshops is a welcome treat to the eyes. They are usually run by small families that have mastered the art of carefully hand-producing these tiles. The artisans are happy to show you how they are made and may even let you cast one to take home! I confidently took 3 and can now attest to it being something you should never do; they’re quite heavy and susceptible to breaking if handled carelessly. If you’re planning to travel to other destinations before heading home, just ask the artisans to courier it. Don’t lug it around in a suitcase like I did. You’ll have to dedicate valuable packing space and the heat doesn't help with the additional weight.
But now, back to the mansions....
Mansions of Glory
The Chettiars made every corner of their homes to be as glorious as possible. A Chettinad house is more than functional; it acts as a status symbol for the family who built it. The Chettiars made houses fit for kings and made sure everyone knew it. These mansions are proof that quality material & masterful craftsmanship can endure through the ages; the houses stand strong years after the people who built them are gone. The Chettiar men would often bring back grand souvenirs from their travels abroad; making foreign motifs of the time a distinctive feature of Chettinad architecture. Even so, the manors stay true to the traditional South Indian architectural language.
The most exquisite detailing undoubtedly lies in the woodwork. It is the layers of intricate carving executed in door frames, panels, lintels, column base & capitals, and ceiling rafters that are the pièce de résistance. The scale of the Main Door compares to a king’s palace. Some of the doors have unique double locking systems and keys that are a foot long! Struggling to push the door close, I was wondering how strong these men & women must have been. Columns of these houses are unique to this region and are a style statement that many young couples covet for their home interior nowadays. No pillar of today’s carpentry lasts as long or is of as good quality as true Chettinad pillars. Their capitals alone are worth thousands. The sheen from the initial coats of polish is still evident on the woodwork, although some parts may be painted in bright hues that match the colourful flooring.
Characteristic features of Chettinad Architecture
Italian marble flooring in Neo-classical patterns
Burma teak columns in Greek orders
European crystal chandeliers
Belgian floor-to-ceiling mirrors
Spanish tiles
Colours are everywhere in Chettinadu; they seem to be cheerfully smiling while silently rejoicing amongst themselves… Be it the exterior or interior, surfaces are painted in many bright, attractive hues. Contrary to popular norms, the garish palette works well. The trick? Highlighting architectural details rather than the plain surfaces. This makes them stand out against a neutral base. As the mansions were heavily detailed, this technique could be implemented without worry. No two mansions look the same; even if they have similar colour palettes, they are used diversely.
Overwhelming details ©Varsha Arun, 2023
All About Symmetry
Chettinad houses follow a similar layout in the arrangement of their spaces; they are planned symmetrically on either side of an axis running from the entrance gate to the direct opposite end of the plot. Immediate central regions around the axis are gathering spaces. One space leads into the next, and so on, with doorways being placed along the axis to segregate spaces. If all the doors were to be kept open, a person standing at the compound gate would be able to see all the way to the back compound! It’s an amazing display of symmetry and repetition. A standard Chettinadu mansion will have a grand entrance arch or gateway known as Mugappu set within the compound itself. The peak expression of this can be seen in Kanadukathan Palace, which is rumoured to have been a real king’s residence.
Muggapu is a must. Here are two contrasting examples - Kanadukathan Palace (left) & a more modest take on it (right) ©Varsha Arun, 2023
From the road, the visitor first enters the Thinnai or Verandah which is essentially a shaded semi-outdoor space meant for receiving visitors. A raised platform for sitting enabled street-level interaction with passers-by, pushcart vendors, postmen, etc. An ideal place to gossip, catch up, observe the surroundings, read, and nap, it is an ideal place to cool down in the hot afternoons of Tamil Nadu. This is where you leave your shoes before entering the house. Thinnai is an indispensable element of Indian culture and is decorated with the utmost splendour, as the visitors’ first impression of the mansion (and by extension, the family) is created here. While it has many architectural details that vie for the visitors’ attention, it is undoubtedly the gigantic Main Doorway that takes the cake. You can't walk through one without savouring its every detail. The lintels are feature scenes of gods in their carving, and the door frames will have multiple offsets with matching designs at their bases. The doors themselves have elaborate panels. Hinges of these doors are no joke - they bear the heavy weight of the intricate locks & latches in addition to the wood.
Going through the doorway, you’re transported into a large open-to-sky courtyard, bordered on all sides by rooms and partially shaded by sloping roofs. But why a courtyard and not a living room? Courtyard or Valavu is integral to such houses for 2 reasons:
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It keeps the interiors cool❄️
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It acts as a central gathering space for members of the house 👨👩👦
A manor could have anywhere between 2 to 3 courtyards depending on its scale. They are laid along the central axis of the house in a receding order of their hierarchy. The first courtyard directly accessed from the Thinnai is the most decorated, doubling as a living + entertainment area. Guests and relatives are meant to gather here during festivals or functions. The rooms surrounding the courtyard are a mix of store rooms, bedrooms, and general parlours for different members of the family. The room with the fanciest door is generally the Pooja room.
Can you spot all the different materials used for this splendid Thinnai? ©Varsha Arun, 2023
Doorways ©Varsha Arun, 2023
The first courtyard ©Varsha Arun, 2023
In some houses there may be a subsidiary verandah after the Thinnai, a sort of formal foyer where the accountants of the Chettiars often tended to their bookkeeping. It is rare to find one but leisurely mansion-hopping through Kanadukathan would guarantee you results. Directly opposite the main door, on the other end of the courtyard is the second-most significant door of the house. Cross this, and we arrive at another courtyard which is less elaborate in appearance but built with a functional approach as it is used by the women of the house.
Unlike the modular kitchens of today, cooking was done in open air back then. Counters were insignificant due to all activities being done at the floor level. There is a raw utilitarian feel here; it is easy to picture ladies sitting on the corridors peeling onions… crouching near the tap cleaning pots… Or working on getting the fire going in earth stoves. Similar to the previous courtyard, there are rooms flanking the corridors. Some are store rooms, while others are bedrooms. A secondary courtyard between this & the first courtyard may be found in some houses. It would be the dining hall. The bedrooms in the first courtyard were commonly where the men of the house would stay while the kitchen courtyard was for women. The washing/bathing quarters can be found beyond the kitchen along the main axis, with separate sections for men & women. This could sometimes have a yard to house livestock (see if you can spot a well). It demonstrates humility in habits; having a bath with a bucket of water drawn from the well or grinding chutney in the yard with a big grinding stone.
Kitchen courtyard ©Varsha Arun, 2023
Butter and curd were kept hanging in pots to prevent cats from getting at them ©Varsha Arun, 2023
Washing and bathing yard ©Varsha Arun, 2023
The upper floors are accessed by the same layout of corridors as below. As a result, all the rooms are fronted by a balcony and receive good light & ventilation. The corridors sometimes double as galleries offering resplendent views of the court. With so many rooms, each nuclear family within the joint family had rooms to itself. As Chettiars hosted get-togethers often, so much space meant that all guests had a comfortable, leisurely stay. It is not uncommon to see paintings of deities or family photos above each room door. Even window grills have exquisite motifs that showcase the variety in Chettinad design. The ceiling rafters too have carvings on them. It isn't uncommon to see metal hooks in the rafters; these were used to suspend swings & cradles.
Upper floor corridor ©Varsha Arun, 2023
Treatment of openings differ based on their hierarchy ©Varsha Arun, 2023
Corridor ceiling ©Varsha Arun, 2023
Chettinad houses, apart from being reflections of their owners’ status, are also very sustainable and climate-responsive. With the weather being hot & humid almost all year round, features such as expansive clay-tiled roofs, multiple courtyards, large voluminous spaces, ample openings, etc. keep interior spaces cool and liveable.
Flat terraces above the first-floor rooms were made of traditional brick slabs that brought down heat gain and offered large space to sun-dry vegetables and spices, that could be later marinated as local delicacies. These are flanked by sloped roofs of clay tiles. A continuous orange canopy stretches in every direction of the horizon from the terrace, making it hard to determine where one mansion ends and another begins. These roofs are a characteristic feature of Chettinad homes. They tackle hot summers and long monsoons but also perform a vital role in rainwater harvesting. Yes, that’s right. The Chettiars were well aware of the benefits of harvesting natural resources long before modern technology. The walls too are rendered with a locally made plaster of lime mixed with eggs that has a satin, creamy, raw essence to its touch. Lime imparts strengthening properties & insulation to the wall while the addition of egg makes it look new even after decades.
View from the 1st floor (former) and terrace (latter) ©Varsha Arun, 2023
A Funny Story
The Chettiars saved their grandeur for spaces that had the most visitor footfall. It is the vibrant corridors, acting as transition spaces, that are the most adorned. As I stood admiring them at the Athangudi Palace in a lucky breadth of time when I was the only tourist present, my reverie was interrupted by a sudden thrum of activity. It started slowly, but soon erupted into a loud cacophony of laughter and shouting. Students of a nearby school had been brought here for a field trip. First two, then six, then tens of children of all ages thronged the sunlit courtyard, running with glee around the columns. In minutes, the entire courtyard was abuzz, children exploring nooks & crannies, playing hide-and-seek, chasing each other like bees. As I was watching them, I began to understood the true purpose of these houses. They were not for solitude-seeking, art-admiring explorers like me.
They were always meant to unite people in joy & togetherness.
A school day trip ©Varsha Arun, 2023
It was all I could do to edge away from the pandemonium unfolding around me. I couldn’t help but smile at these children, so blissfully unaware of the art around them, yet their activities being enabled by the same surroundings.
That's it, folks!
The visit left me with mixed feelings of longing… and confusion as to why someone should leave a home such as this to go live in cities. Places such as Chettinadu receive a small portion of the recognition that more popular tourist spots get. But they are no less an architectural feat than Dravidian temples or Havelis of Rajasthan. It is high time that they get the attention they need and restorative efforts are made to bring them back their glory. Chettinad mansions are a lot like this essay; a lot to take in, but we’ve barely touched the tip of the subject. Chettinadu is something every one of us must experience; no description of it does it justice and its legacy is only truly perceived in person.
Some guidelines for fellow travellers :
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Be respectful of the locals and their heritage. If they tell you not to do something, do NOT do it.
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If a mansion is open to visitors, it should not be more than 50₹ per person if you’re Indian. They may charge a little bit more for foreigners.
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Leave your footwear in the Thinnai.
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Only a few mansions are open to visitors. Others can only be viewed from outside (namely the famous Kanadukathan Palace & Aayiram Jhannal Veedu). However, Kanadukathan Palace is extensively featured in the movie Kandukondain Kandukondain. ; )
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You can stay in any of the numerous heritage stays either in Kanadukathan or Karaikudi for the duration of your visit. These also offer authentic Chettinad cuisine, that is .
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Karaikudi has less to offer in the way of mansion hopping. So it’s better to stay in Kanadukathan if you’re solely interested in that. But since all these towns are close by, it’s not very hard to visit them irrespective of where you’re staying.
The entrance passage of the Kanadukathan Palace can be viewed from outside ©Varsha Arun, 2023
Aayiram Jhannal Veedu or Thousand Windows House in Karaikudi ©Varsha Arun, 2023
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The one thing you cannot miss in Karaikudi is the antique lane in the main market. All vintage items from Chettinad homes end up here and all the shops host rare collectibles. It is a great place to find treasures for your home! However, the lane is not easy to locate and requires a sharp eye to be discovered.
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The Alagappa Chettiar Museum in Karaikudi is the perfect place to get a true insight into Chettiar livelihood & culture.
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Have fun.
©Varsha Arun, 2023
References
Anupama Mohanram. (2023). The ‘Thinnai’ (or) ‘Verandah’- an important aesthetic, social and sustainable architectural element! [online]. Available at: https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/thinnai-verandah-important-aesthetic-social-element-anupama-mohanram. [Accessed 04 Oct. 2023].
Wikipedia. (2023). Chettinad. [online] Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chettinad. [Accessed 13 Sep. 2023].
Wikipedia. (2023). Nagarathar. [online] Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nagarathar. [Accessed 13 Sep. 2023].
Khushi Kothari. (n.d). Available at: https://www.re-thinkingthefuture.com/sustainable-architecture/a9906-the-design-features-of-chettinad-house/. [Accessed 21 Sep. 2023].
Ami Bhat. (n.d). Available at: https://thrillingtravel.in/mansions-of-chettinad-karaikudi.html. [Accessed 14 Oct. 2023].